Denimology

Rogue Territory - Brand Profile

With so many denim labels making mass produced jeans out of China these days the demand for good quality, USA made product has dwindled in recent times... Well, so you would think.

Karl Thoennessen of Rogue Territory is bucking the trend with great success. His label, Rogue Territory is a tribute to American manufacturers of the early 20th century. When clothing was built to last and attention was placed not only on the quality of the materials, but also on the construction of the garment. The products Rogue Territory offers are modern interpretations of the garments that were produced during the industrial age of the 20th century. Their mission is to build on the designs of the past by offering a more fashionably relevant collection for those who are passionate about denim and vintage clothing.

Karl has taken some time out to answer a few questions about his label and the denim industry.

What is the story behind the name?
The name Rogue Territory truly embodies my own interpretation of denim that borrows inspiration from the all-American actors of the silver screen in the 1950s and 60s. Men like James Dean, Marlon Brando, Paul Newman, and Steve McQueen all exemplified an authentic and rebellious nature that was epitomized by the blue jeans that they wore on screen and off. The idea that rebels are rogue within society is an intriguing notion. Rebels are individuals, loners in nature. As a rebel you plot your own territory. These rebels used blue jeans to represent their unique individuality. Blue jeans were inherently rebellious, on the fringe of society and that very legacy has been woven into the rich history of the fabric and what it has come to represent. Rogue Territory believes that in denim's rawest form, it symbolizes a blank canvas for each of us to express our individuality and freedom, to tell our story, to be rebellious, and to ultimately create our own Rogue Territory.

Where are you based?
160 S. La Brea
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Also
Inside American Rag Cie World Denim Bar

How many retail outlets do you have?
The Rogue Territory Workshop. This is our atelier and retail space, we also offer denim alterations. We're currently working on launching in select LA retail locations.

How many styles of denim does your collection have? Ladies/Mens?
For now we are focusing on a men's limited collection. It will consist of 5 different styles which will be made out of hand selected limited production fabrics from some of the top Mills in Japan and from Cone Mills, which is one of the top mills in the world. Since our line is limited in number we will continue to release new and existing styles in new fabric selections throughout the year.
Of course we still offer our custom jeans for men and women.

What's your price range?
Our limited collection will be $225-300 with some offerings at American Rag for under $200
Our custom jeans start at $400 for your first pair and can top off at $700 if you include custom washes and intricate personal touches. Customers get a personal pattern drafted to match their unique measurements and specifications, which is kept on file. Customers also receive a $100 discount on subsequent custom jeans.

Whats your vision/dream for Rogue Territory in 10 years from now?
World domination, but in a casual unassuming way.

What makes the perfect pair of jeans?
Jeans that are worn as they were meant to be worn day in and day out.

What projects do you have coming up next?
We are very excited about releasing our very first collection, which will be in stores this fall.

With the recent economic downturn can you see a slow down in denim purchases?
The one thing that you can say about denim is that it transcends trends. Whether it be fashion, economic or otherwise. Denim is a staple in everyone's wardrobe, true, most of us probably own too many pairs of jeans but it doesn't stop us from searching for the next pair. Recycle or donate your jeans when you're done with them.

How long would it take to construct a pair of Rogue Territory Jeans?
We like to give ourselves 4-6 weeks (depending on complexity) to produce the perfect pair of jeans. This includes a consultation and 2 fittings.

Can a customer buy a ready made pair as well as a made to measure pair of Rogue Territory Jeans?
Ready made jeans will be made available this Fall '09 season

What trends do you see coming through for 2010?
I really believe that consumers want to be more involved and invested in the clothing that they purchase. Now more than ever, customers are looking for quality, durability and uniqueness.

What are your best selling styles?
It's up the customer. Our jeans are completely custom and completely unique...on average it's a 5 pocket mid-rise slim-straight made out of raw Japanese selvage denim

How long has Rogue Territory been in business and what made you get into denim?
Rogue Territory's been in business for 2 years, I've focused on handcrafting jeans and sourcing top quality denim, quality construction and educating my customers.
A little over 10 years ago I came across my very first pair of jeans that was priced at over a $120. I was intrigued by the idea that denim can be expensive. I needed to know what made them so different from the jeans I was used to buying. I wanted to learn about the materials that this company and others like it were using. In my researching this new trend I discovered Evisu. This was the first brand that really opened my eye. Evisu made me look at denim in a different way. Their passion and dedication really resonated with me. Evisu lead me to other brands that share similar values. Their passion for the craft was inspiring.

What are your thoughts on the increasing number of celebrities designing their own lines of denim?
I think it's cool when anybody offers up their own take on denim. Everybody approaches this garment differently, which makes this industry so unique. I may not agree with some of the styles that are out there and people may not like what I'm doing, but it's great that we all can find our niches. It takes a lot of energy, time and money to launch your own denim line and I have respect for anybody that gives it a go.

Who's denim style inspires you the most?
The good ol' boys: Paul Newman, Steve McQueen, Marlon Brando, and James Dean and all the working class heros of the early 20th century. And Daniel Plainview (played by Daniel Day Lewis) in There Will Be Blood.

What is the worst denim crime?
Answering this question.