Denimology

Designer Q & A - James Jeans

This week's Designer Q & A is with Seun Lim, Designer of James Jeans.

1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?
People have changed much more in so many respects in the last twenty years than the last two hundred years combined. We now have the internet and full-fledged globalization. We really feel like we are connected to the rest of the world. Denim jeans are a classic wardrobe staple that have kept up with such terrific changes. In coming years, jeans will play an even bigger role in our apparel choices. We live on one planet with limited resources but jeans are as natural and organic as they get. People no longer dress according to segregated social classes. Jeans are the ultimate expression of democracy and equality. We are born the same but what we do makes the difference and jeans are thus our highest and lowest common denominator of self-expression. From a fashion trend standpoint, we are seeing a convergence of high fashion and fast fashion and jeans are the obvious connective tissue of choice to harmonize the cultural gap. There are now jeans for every taste and choice. The faster the people change, the faster the jeans must adapt. Jeans will forever be in vogue. They are durable and versatile and ideal for our transforming lifestyles.

2) Last time I counted there were over 300 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
From day one, James Jeans has been about the fit. And to date, we are sticking to the same program as there is still much to improve in our journey towards the land of perfect fit. Our fit is both comfortable and sexy at the same time. That's a duality hard to play out in co-existence. We give out and relax where we have to provide the comfort and we suck in and pull in where we have to create the sexy shape. Jeans by definition are tightly fitting on a person. How we can mold the shape of the body to create that sexy yet invitingly comfortable fit is our specialty. Our brand ethos has been three S's: Sophisticated, Subtle and Sexy.

Designer Q & A - True Religion Brand Jeans

This week's Designer Q & A is with Jeff Lubell, Founder of True Religion Brand Jeans.

1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?
After all these years, jeans have become iconic. They are a casual wardrobe staple, just like the black pant is a dressy wardrobe staple.

2) Last time I counted there were over 200 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
We don't follow trends. We make innovative, trend setting product every season. Our jeans don't look like any other jeans out there in the market. Everything about our jeans is special: from the fabric, to the wash, to the stitching, to the hardware. We pay attention to every little detail. I always say "it's all about the product!"

3) Who do you imagine is a typical customer?
That's a hard question to answer. We are in 50 countries around the world and we sell everyone from toddlers, to girlie girls, to tomboys, to soccer stars in Europe and celebrities in Hollywood, to older gentlemen (like Larry King).

Album Jeans - Designer Interview

With the success of the label Maise already under her belt, former Top Shop designer Claire Greaves has started a new venture, Album Jeans. Seeing a gap in the market for well priced, understated jeans, Claire has created Album which is due for release in the first half of 2010. We are lucky enough to have Claire take some time out to answer a few questions on her new venture.

Why does the world need Album Jeans?

Album jeans are your faves from the get go. They are soft and comfortable and adapt to their owners style instantly because of their simplicity. The world needs good quality well priced understated and under branded denim

What is the story behind the name?

Album means a collection of things, often your favourite things, a great pair of jeans, an awesome fitting t shirt. People over look these things sometimes but they make you feel good about yourself and show your personality... just as an album does, whether it is music, photos or clothes.

Where are you based?

We are based in Sydney Australia

Stefano Aldighieri - Another Design Studio Interview

Stefano Aldighieri designs jeans for some of the worlds biggest denim companies. His company Another Design Studio in LA is one of only a hand full of companies selected to show at the denim trade event The Kingpins. We are lucky enough to have Stefano answer some questions for us.

What does "Another design studio" do?

* We offer a number of services, ranging from design (concept, research and development of fabric, trim, patterns, washes), to branding, marketing, positioning, web development for textile or apparel companies and brands.

How did it start for you? What drew you to the world of denim?

* I grew up in Northern Italy, in an area where textiles and garment manufacturing were very present; I studied Architecture, then Business; worked in the music industry first, and then gradually I got attracted to the world of jeans (it is a long story, we would need a whole lot more space to tell it all!)

You pretty much have a dream resume for any denim head in the world having worked for the likes of Levi's, 7 for all mankind and Hudson to name a few. What would be your first point of advice for anyone trying to get into the world of denim design?

* From the outside, denim looks very simple, it is just a basic cotton fabric with a blue warp and a white fill yarn, with very humble origins. However, because of the nature of its component, it can become very complex and it has to be studied thoroughly in order to understand it and make the best out of it. I would recommend studying the fabric and then constantly researching vintage garments.

Interview With Lynn Downey, Levi's Historian

To celebrate the anniversary of 75 Years of Women's Levi's we have an interview with Lynn Downey, who is the Levi's Historian.

1) Boyfriend jeans have been phenomenally popular over the last 18 months, levi's were actually responsible for the first pair of boyfriend jeans back in the 1900s when women started wearing men's 501 as there was nothing else available. Can you tell us more about this?
In the early 1900s, women wore men's 501 jeans while working on ranches and farms, just like their men did. To these women, a sturdy pair of men's pants like the 501 meant that they could work side by side with their husbands, brothers and sons, and contribute to the success and prosperity of their families. Levi Strauss & Co. saw that this was happening and decided to create a jean just for women in 1934.

2) Which were the first pair of jeans specifically designed for women?
Lady Levi's, introduced in 1934. They were lot 701 (as opposed to the men's lot 501), and were cut with a more feminine flair. They were meant for women to wear for everything from ranch work, to dude ranch vacations. They were very versatile and started what has become the biggest category in jeanswear.

3) In the 60's, Levi's introduced the slimmer fitting women's jean which became the pre-cursor of the ever popular skinny jean. Which other women's styles from the levi's past do you think can still be seen in contemporary denim.
Many of today's styles are looks that have evolved from past trends (such as the boyfriend discussed above). For example, the boot cut jean was originally created for men in 1969, to fit over their cowboy and other boots. Women begin wearing this fit around 2000 and it remains one of our top sellers today.

4) Men's Levi's are often associated with non-conformity and rebellion would you say the same is true of women's Levi's.
It was certainly brave and fashion-forward for women to wear jeans in the 1930s, and even into the 1960s. Denim was so associated with masculinity, and even though lady Levi's were a more feminine cut, it was still a bit subversive for women to jump into a pair of jeans. Women like katharine hepburn were wearing trousers in the 1930s, scandalizing society, and denim on women got the same reaction. Women wore them at places like dude ranches and in western towns where it was a little more appropriate. Western women had worn denim for a long time, and it was when eastern women adopted lady Levi's that they took off. In the 1930s, stores like best & co. In new york, as well as kaufman's riding goods, carried the jeans, knowing that women wanted the denim look.

5) What has been the most important technological advancement in terms of women's denim over the last 100 year.
The most important technological advancement in denim was the addition of 'stretch' to jeans. In the 1960s, nylon was woven into denim fabric, which changed the wearing occasions and experience for women. This new 'stretch' made denim more functional, sexy and feminine.

Designer Q & A - Adriano Goldschmied

The week's Designer Q & A is with Denim Legend Adriano Goldschmied, President, Founder and Creative Director of Goldsign.

1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?
Denim has long been a symbol of freedom, and still is.

2) Last time I counted there were over 200 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
Goldsign is constantly evolving and utilizing the most innovative techniques to offer the finest fabrics, washes and fits. Our customer knows they are they are getting the highest quality in denim when they purchase Goldsign.

3) Who do you imagine is a typical customer?
The Goldsign customer is an independent woman around 30 years of age who pays close attention to fashion but is not a victim of fashion.