Denimology

Justin Timberlake talks about William Rast

Celeb designer Justin Timberlake and co-designer Trace Ayala were in New York last week for Fashion Week and the Wall Street Journal managed to speak to them about denim brand, William Rast. Check out the interview below.

WSJ: Tell me about how the brand has evolved since you launched it four years ago.

Justin Timberlake: Our goal is a small level of success, and we are happy to have it. We feel we've made the right steps to ensure we can stick around for a long time. That means actually doing the work.

WSJ: In recent years, dozens of celebrities have started apparel brands. Now many of them are disappearing, either because of the economy, or because the celebrity is no longer in the public eye, or the clothes were bad, or whatever. What do you think when you look around and see all of that happening?

JT: When we first put this together, I said that I want to treat this like everything you just mentioned doesn't exist. We have to do the work. We have to do it the right way. We are not looking to cash in.

Jason Denham - Interview

Jason Denham has come along way since starting his career back in 1992 at the work shop of Joe Casley-Hayford. After setting up his own company Denham in Spring 2009, Jason is making massive inroads into the overcrowded market place of premium denim with major retailers in Holland, Germany and the UK quick to pick up the brand.

Denham's moto, "the truth is in the detail" is very evident when you get a close up view of the collection. The jeans are a good balance of a commitment to progressive design against an equally obsessive respect for jeans craft and tradition, which is commonly forgotten about these days.

"Jason Denham's single-minded obsession with denim is the primary inspiration for the brand. His conviction that deep knowledge comes with extensive research is central to the studio's design approach. The Denham Garment Libary features an extensive collection of archetypal jean models as well as work wear, military clothing and travel gear from the last century up till today."

Jason has been kind enough to take some time out to answer a few question about his brand and where it is headed in the future.

Tony Patella - Interview

A Coninuous Lean has interviewed Tony Patella, who is partly responsible for San Francisco based premium denim label Tellason. The label creates limited edition jeans with each pair made of Cone Selvage denim from North Carolina, sewn in San Francisco and signed with a leather patch from Portland's Tanner Goods. Check out the full interview here.

Rogue Territory - Brand Profile

With so many denim labels making mass produced jeans out of China these days the demand for good quality, USA made product has dwindled in recent times... Well, so you would think.

Karl Thoennessen of Rogue Territory is bucking the trend with great success. His label, Rogue Territory is a tribute to American manufacturers of the early 20th century. When clothing was built to last and attention was placed not only on the quality of the materials, but also on the construction of the garment. The products Rogue Territory offers are modern interpretations of the garments that were produced during the industrial age of the 20th century. Their mission is to build on the designs of the past by offering a more fashionably relevant collection for those who are passionate about denim and vintage clothing.

Karl has taken some time out to answer a few questions about his label and the denim industry.

What is the story behind the name?
The name Rogue Territory truly embodies my own interpretation of denim that borrows inspiration from the all-American actors of the silver screen in the 1950s and 60s. Men like James Dean, Marlon Brando, Paul Newman, and Steve McQueen all exemplified an authentic and rebellious nature that was epitomized by the blue jeans that they wore on screen and off. The idea that rebels are rogue within society is an intriguing notion. Rebels are individuals, loners in nature. As a rebel you plot your own territory. These rebels used blue jeans to represent their unique individuality. Blue jeans were inherently rebellious, on the fringe of society and that very legacy has been woven into the rich history of the fabric and what it has come to represent. Rogue Territory believes that in denim's rawest form, it symbolizes a blank canvas for each of us to express our individuality and freedom, to tell our story, to be rebellious, and to ultimately create our own Rogue Territory.

Resin Denim Designer Interview

From the visionaries behind Paper Cloth and Denim, founder Chris Gilbert teams up with designers Durango Adams and Chantel Valentene Inniss to launch Resin Denim this fall. Blending American styling with the vibe of New York City the line is made from Japanese Kurabo denim which is one of the oldest and most respected denim mills operating today. Each season an emerging artist will be designing special pocket linings creating one-of-a-kind collection pieces. The line for men and women is set to retail between $128 - $158 and will be available in stores and online at ResinDenim. Denimology had the great luck to chat with the designers before their launch.

1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?

Jeans are ingrained into our culture, They have crossed generations and class barriers because they are a staple item for the rebel and the conformist. Easy to wear and always sexy, their ability to evolve has cemented their position in our present and future wardrobes.

2) Last time I counted there were over 200 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?

RESIN was birthed from a company rooted in the genesis of the "premium" denim market. Working with founder Chris Gilbert and having the history of Paper Denim and Cloth as a foundation, we have built a new vision maintaining the same ethos of quality denim and great fit. There are many denim brands trying to find their niche in a very saturated market. RESIN appeals to a customer whose appreciation of great denim goes beyond the hype.

3) Who do you imagine is a typical customer?

It's difficult to imagine a RESIN customer as typical. We don't dictate how to wear what we make. Our "typical" customer styles our jeans as they see fit, inspired to express their individuality. Denim, like all personal style should be effortless and organic. In turn, the way they wear it inspires us when designing the future collections.

Designer Q & A - Ande Whall

New Zealand's best kept secret in the world of denim is hands down, Ande Whall. Whall is the designer, pattern maker, sewing machinist and salesman of all goods produced under the Ande Whall banner. With an eye for detail and craftsmanship coupled alongside some selvage denim that would make any denim enthusiast eyes water, Ande Whall is making some great inroads into the world of premium men's denim. With all this hype going around about the man, we thought it was about time we caught up with him for a Designer Q & A.

1) Why do you think after 200 years jeans are still one of the most popular items of clothing?
It's the wonder cloth of all people and they do an honest days work.

2) Last time I counted there were over 200 brands of premium denim jeans, what makes your jeans stand out from the rest?
When I like a product or brand it's more of an overall vibe, there is some sort of essence that takes your fancy. Hopefully my customers feel the same.